Devil Hunting: The Plight of the Tasmanian Devil

Last weekend we were invited to go up to northern  Tasmania with some  friends who are researching the Tasmanian Devil. We’d seen the devil in a wildlife conservation center, but not in the wild–the devils are nocturnal animals and generally hard to spot. It was an incredible opportunity to see the devil up close and better understand this endangered little creature: the world’s largest carnivorous marsupial.

Our friends have a field site in Narawntapu National Park, which is on the northern coast of Tassie, about two and a half hours from Hobart. They have other field sites around Tasmania, especially in areas that are in the ‘ecotone’–the areas between dense forest and open pasture or forest plantations (ironically). In these areas, the devil populations are actually quite dense. But, the problem is that the devil is suffering from a communicable cancer that is spread through bites. Devils bite each other as part of their normal behavior, especially during mating. We saw some animals with some serious wounds. Unfortunately, this is how the cancer spreads–known as Devil Facial Tumor Disease. It causes rapidly growing tumors, especially in the mouth area. These tumors grow at an incredible rate, and end up making it impossible for the devils to eat, eventually killing them. The disease is so fast-spreading, and causes mortality within such a short time-span, that it has led to listing of the devil as an endangered species since the disease was discovered in 1996.

Rodrigo Hamede did his PhD research on the epidemiology and ecology of the devil tumor disease and is now a postdoctoral research fellow at UTAS. His wife Sarah Peck is a vet with the Save the Tasmanian Devil Program. What a team! They were nice enough to invite us out with them on the trip to the Narawntapu field site (well, it helps that Rodrigo is Chilean!). They were accompanied by Cecilia Carrea, an Argentine PhD in Biology who was volunteering for the project (and her husband Eric Oliver from Labrador, Canada,  post-doc at the Institute for Marine and Antarctic Studies, and more importantly a homebrew expert).

The goal of their research is to better understand the disease, how it progresses, and how the devil is adapting. There are some isolated devil populations in Tassie that are NOT infected with the disease, but most are. To prevent total extinction, there are also many devils in captivity to protect the species. But, Rodrigo and Sarah are researching the diseased populations to help advance understanding of the species and the disease.

They set out traps (don’t worry, they are very friendly traps–the devils usually just fall asleep in them after chowing down on lamb) and check them daily for devils. If they find a devil, they take extensive samples. They also put in microchips to track the progress of the disease, and weigh and measure the devils to determine their overall health, take blood samples, tumor samples, and other stuff (sorry, I’m not a scientist!). Then, they’re let go and off they scamper off into the bush!

The devils are incredibly mellow and well-behaved, despite their devilish reputation! The ones we saw were mostly calm while being held by Rodrigo (he is very experienced though and makes it look quite easy). The younger ones are generally healthy, while the older ones almost always have tumors. The tumors themselves are pretty disturbing. They LOOK painful. Apparently though the tumors themselves are not painful to the devils, but rather cause harm by impeding the ability of the devils to eat and sustain themselves (correct me if I’m wrong!).

One of the interesting adaptations that they’ve found is that the devils are reproducing at a much younger age. Now, females with less than one year are reproducing–a significant change in behavior. It’s a rapid adaptation given the relatively short history of the disease, and the devils in these cancerous populations are feeling the pressure to reproduce earlier and earlier to mitigate the extreme mortality once infected. While it’s not necessarily a positive sign, it does give some hope that the species may potentially adapt to the disease to prevent total extinction in the wild. I’m no expert, but this was my take on it.

If you want to learn more, you can check out the Save the Tasmanian Devil website.

One of the traps had a spotted quoll. This is another crazy Tassie animal! There’s some good information on spotted quolls here.

Narwantapu was just beautiful, and we highly recommend a visit! Especially early in the morning, when the fog rolls in off the ocean (camanchaca in Chilean) and creates a magical setting among the rolling hills and cockatoo-laden trees. Pretty cool. It was a great weekend to be a Tasmanian. [photo credits to Andres!]

 

Drums, charquican, and other random happenings

So I meant to write this post about the Salamanca Market, but I just looked at my photos and I really need to go back and fill in some holes so you get the full Salamanca feel. In perusing the rest of my photos (you know how that happens, you take all these pics and then when you finally get around to looking at them, it’s a weird and random assortment of moments. love that.) no real theme emerged. You can piece it together yourself.

Chicada heats it up

First up (in non-chronological order), through our previously mentioned Chilean social circle, we’ve become friends with the leader and a bunch of the players in this batucada band called Chicada. If you don’t know what batucada is, it’s basically a lot of people all drumming together samba-style. It’s Brazilian and full of energy and onda. Our friend Franco Solis started the band; he also has a bunch of other cool music projects, the most famous around here being Arauco Libre. Franco has been in Hobart from 20+ years and has a heart of music. Andres joined Chicada, which probably has about 15 members, in January. He’s been going to the practices and having a great time getting back into music. Chicada is in fairly high demand around here–major novelty. He’s already had two gigs!! I get to be a groupie. Until I join. I’m really thinking about that!

The first gig was at the World Party, this international festival that Hobart puts on. I believe this was the second or third year for the festival, and it was impressively diverse for this little town. There was a Laotian dancer, Japanese drum circle, West African music and dancing, and much more. Plus food booths from the various international restaurants in town. I think a good portion of the international residents of Hobart must have been there and participating in some way! Unfortunately it was kind of a limp crowd because it was the HOTTEST day on record in quite some time. I think it got up to 35C, which is in the  mid-90s. HOT HOT HOT. We went to the beach earlier in the day and it was like a furnace was blasting full force over the sand. It was probably the one day of the year when you could actually just lounge about in the ocean! I digress.

World Pearty

One thing I couldn’t understand about the World Party: the logo was a giant pear-shaped world. I thought about this for quite some time. Why a pear? Because pears are peaceful? You can see Australia better because it’s on the bulbous part of the pear?  Didn’t really get anywhere with that. Hmmm. But Chicada was a hit and had people up and clapping. Andres was concentrating very hard because the songs were new. Also note: he rebelled and refused to wear the Chicada-issued black track pants because of the heat. He was the only one. Afterwards, everyone was like, did they run out of pants, man?

At the same time this kaleidoscope of nations was partying, there was an Olympic time trial speedwalking event happening. Seriously. I think the two events must not have been in communication.  They were racing around the party venue. If you wanted a breather from the music you could go out and stare at these men and women doing crazy things with their hips. Have you ever seen one of these races? It is really difficult to look away, because these people look just that awkward. So basically, to cross the street from the party venue to the park with your food, you had to wait for a race official to give you the go-ahead and wait for these sweaty (95 degrees, remember?) emaciated racewalkers to hipple their way past. Then you could walk across the race course, and enjoy your dim sum, sushi, injera or whatnot while spectating. It was quite the Saturday evening in Hobart!

In other news, we’ve been doing some good cooking. One of our endeavors has been to cook more traditional Chilean dishes. First up: Charquican. It’s basically a beef, corn, and pumpkin stew. Chilean food tends to feature basic ingredients and robust, side-sticking recipes. If you use good raw ingredients, the recipes really highlight them, but don’t expect tons of fancy spices. The charquican turned out delicious, and just the way Andres remembered. This is important when re-creating home-country memories, and not always possible or probable (the former depending on the ingredients, the latter on the chef!). Luckily grilling is traditional in many countries. Aussies love their barbie! We’ve been making good use of ours too. And enjoying it with friends.

 

I'm re-falling in love with pancakes. Brinner may be on the horizon.

Other good projcts of late: mango pancakes, apple pie from the tree (I’ve actually made THREE apple pies from our tree, we have that many apples. Plus apple cake and apple crisp. Twice.), and the piece de resistance already debuted on facebook, chocolate blueberry cheesecake! The occasion for that was have Andres’s former and current bosses (and wife) over for dinner, for which I duly entertained like a good wife. It was pretty fun to make a big dinner for them. The menu included pastel de choclo (we ate it before I took any photos but I swear it looks like the one linked here!), roasted green beans, pear blue cheese salad, and the dessert, of course. I’m just going to stick in a bunch of random photos of food now. Cooking continues to be a grounding force in my life, and it’s been a real pleasure here with all of the wonderful Australian and Tasmanian produce. Thanks to referrals from like-minded foodie friends, we’ve pinpointed some tasty things: incredible dried Italian pasta from the Italian Pantry (I cannot over-emphasize the incredible-ness of this pasta. I will be bringing it back for gifts so it can accumulate some extra carbon footprint miles in its journey from Italy); Wursthaus lamb sausages; Meredith Dairy goat’s cheese; and Tasmanian leatherwood honey. Okay, enough writing. Gotta go cook.

Before

 

 

After

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chocolate cheesecake deliciousness. This is for you Liz.